perf: add a GIT_PERF_MAKE_COMMAND for when *_MAKE_OPTS won't do

perf: add a GIT_PERF_MAKE_COMMAND for when *_MAKE_OPTS won't do

Add a git GIT_PERF_MAKE_COMMAND variable to compliment the existing
GIT_PERF_MAKE_OPTS facility. This allows specifying an arbitrary shell
command to execute instead of 'make'.

This is useful e.g. in cases where the name, semantics or defaults of
a Makefile flag have changed over time. It can even be used to change
the contents of the tree, useful for monkeypatching ancient versions
of git to get them to build.

This opens Pandora's box in some ways, it's now possible to
"jailbreak" the perf environment and e.g. modify the source tree via
this arbitrary instead of just issuing a custom "make" command, such a
command has to be re-entrant in the sense that subsequent perf runs
will re-use the possibly modified tree.

It would be pointless to try to mitigate or work around that caveat in
a tool purely aimed at Git developers, so this change makes no attempt
to do so.

Signed-off-by: Ævar Arnfjörð Bjarmason <avarab@gmail.com>
Signed-off-by: Junio C Hamano <gitster@pobox.com>